Aperture No. 255 - Summer 2024
The Design Issue
From fashion to architecture to the printed page, and beyond, this issue, introducing Aperture’s new look, considers how photography and design frame our daily lives. Customers will receive one of three unique covers, chosen at random, featuring an image by David Hartt, Luigi Ghirri, or Dayanita Singh.
Featured Content
Issue Details
Aperture Introduces a New Look with “The Design Issue”
Summer Issue Features Leading Voices in Photography, Architecture, and Fashion
Aperture introduces a new look for the magazine with “The Design Issue,” featuring previously unpublished images by Luigi Ghirri, a profile of the artist and jewelry designer Coreen Simpson, interviews with the celebrated fashion designer Duro Olowu and the design writer Alice Rawsthorn, and dynamic portfolios that speak to the myriad ways in which the fields of photography and design are intertwined. “The Design Issue” also features three unique covers with images by David Hartt, Luigi Ghirri, and Dayanita Singh.
Aperture continues to be designed by the award-winning, London-based studio A2/SW/HK. Updated elements include a refreshed cover and changes to typefaces, layout, and scale. “This new, inviting format is inspired by the early issues of the magazine. We hope to honor the editorial spirit that has driven this publication since 1952: a commitment to presenting a spectrum of ideas and photography, from past and present, thoughtfully considered through engaging, approachable writing and a thoughtful design,” said Michael Famighetti, editor in chief of Aperture.
In “The Design Issue,” Olowu speaks with the editor Dan Thawley about how his deep knowledge of photography has informed his fashion line. Thessaly La Force visits Coreen Simpson, who made portraits of New York City’s artistic and nightlife scenes and later found success as a jewelry designer. Alice Rawsthorn speaks with Billie Muraben about how designers respond to evolving technology and politics. And Mimi Zeiger considers David Hartt’s interventions with the built environment and iconic buildings, including Philip Johnson’s Glass House.
In elegant, spare images, Dayanita Singh presents her long-term engagement with the architects Geoffrey Bawa and Bijoy Jain. Luigi Ghirri’s 1980s images from the Ferrari factory, in Italy, demonstrate the photographer’s fascination with industrial design. New work by Daniel Shea, Paul Kooiker, and Nhu Xuan Hua show photography’s boundless potential to tell stories about urban change, identity, and sartorial politics. This issue also features Avion Pearce, the winner of the 2024 Aperture Portfolio Prize, whose work will be presented in June at Baxter St at the Camera Club of New York; columns feature Stefan Ruiz, Akihiko Okamura, and Olivia Laing; and features in The PhotoBook Review highlight Alexey Brodovitch’s iconic art direction and Polymode, a bicoastal, queer, and minority-owned studio who are rethinking design histories.
Format: Paperback / softback
Number of pages: 160
Number of images: 0
Publication date: 2024-06-01
Measurements: 8.5 x 10.6 x 1 inches
ISBN: 9781597115674
Support has been provided by members of Aperture’s Magazine Council: Jon Stryker and Slobodan Randjelović, Susan and Thomas Dunn, Kate Cordsen and Denis O’Leary, and Michael W. Sonnenfeldt, MUUS Collection.
Table Of Contents
Features
EDITORS’ NOTE
The Design Issue
CUTTING A FIGURE
The fashion designer Duro Olowu’s endless curiosity
A conversation with Dan Thawley
PARADISE LOST
David Hartt reveals the tensions between architecture and history
Mimi Zeiger
FERRARI BY LUIGI GHIRRI
The Italian photographer’s study of the mythic carmaker
Michael Famighetti
BETTER LIVING
Dayanita Singh finds common ground in the work of two architects
Tausif Noor
EMPIRE PLAZA
Daniel Shea explores a utopian dream in Albany
Julian Rose
DESIGN TOUCHES EVERYTHING
The critic Alice Rawsthorn on design as a response to life
A conversation with Billie Muraben
OFF THE WALL
The many possibilities of photography exhibitions
David Campany and Sara Knelman
THE SHAPE OF THINGS
How do images make products irresistible?
Jesse Dorris
PAST LIVES
Coreen Simpson’s artistic avatars
Thessaly La Force
DREAM SEQUENCE
Uncanny realities inspire Nhu Xuan Hua’s pictures
Larissa Pham
THE THEATER OF PAUL KOOIKER
A fresh voice in fashion deploys oddity and improvisation
Vince Aletti
Columns
AGENDA
LaToya Ruby Frazier, Japanese Women Photographers, Akinbode Akinbiyi, Tropical Modernism
TIMELINE
Kim Beil on a brief history of the moon
VIEWFINDER
Declan Long on Akihiko Okamura’s outsider view of Northern Ireland
STUDIO VISIT
Brendan Embser on Stefan Ruiz’s art-filled Brooklyn home
CURRICULUM
Alejandro Cartagena on Back to the Future, Latin American photography, and flea-market finds
SPOTLIGHT
Lucy McKeon on Avion Pearce’s poetic world-building
ENDNOTE
Olivia Laing on the art of garden making
The PhotoBook Review
POETIC RESEARCH
Dori Tunstall speaks with the designers behind Polymode
ELEMENTS OF STYLE
Christina Cacouris on Alexey Brodovitch’s iconic art direction
THE DESIGNER’S BOOKSHELF
Twelve studios discuss their favorite books