Aperture 253 - Winter 2023
Desire
Aperture’s “Desire” issue—featuring an exclusive interview with Juergen Teller on the occasion of his major retrospective in Paris—presents a wide-ranging look at how photographs are expressions and conduits of our wants, needs, and wishes.
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Issue Details
Aperture Magazine Releases Winter Issue, “Desire,” Featuring an Expansive Interview with Renowned Fashion Photographer Juergen Teller
This winter, Aperture magazine presents “Desire,” an edition that considers desire as both an impulse and a state of mind. The issue features an expansive interview with Juergen Teller, whose photographs upend fashion’s vocabulary of glamour and aspiration, on the occasion of his major exhibition Juergen Teller: i need to live, opening at the Grand Palais Éphémère in Paris on December 16, 2023.
Photographers are natural voyeurs. The compulsion to want—or, in today’s parlance, to manifest—emerges throughout the work in this issue. Artists such as Nakeya Brown, Nabil Harb, Oto Gillen, Marcelo Gomes, and Jonathas de Andrade consider the body, the natural world, beguiling objects, and direct physical expressions of desire as the material for indelible images.
Andrew Maerkle profiles the celebrated Japanese photographer Ishiuchi Miyako, who for decades has conjured history through evocative personal objects, creating magnetic images that are at once surreal and surprisingly physical. Amanda Maddox considers a generation of women photographers whose work probes the feminist dynamics of seeing—and being seen. Moeko Fujii revisits Hisae Imai, an ascendent figure in Tokyo’s art and fashion scenes of the 1960s, and Lucy McKeon finds new resonance in the sensual self-portraits Melissa Shook made as a young woman and mother. In “Desire,” photographers render reality as unearthly—and take the viewer somewhere else altogether.
Format: Paperback / softback
Publication date: 2023-12-05
Measurements: 9.25 x 12 inches
ISBN: 9781597115506
Support has been provided by members of Aperture’s Magazine Council: Jon Stryker and Slobodan Randjelović, Susan and Thomas Dunn, Kate Cordsen and Denis O’Leary, and Michael W. Sonnenfeldt, MUUS Collection.
Table Of Contents
Front
Agenda
In Our Hands, Viviane Sassen, Dorothea Lange, An-My Lê
Dispatches
Kaelen Wilson-Goldie on Tanya Traboulsi’s chronicles of Beirut
Studio Visit
Brendan Embser on Mitch Epstein’s life in New York’s Lower East Side
Timeline
Drew Sawyer on Seydou Keïta’s midcentury studio portraits
Viewfinder
Suleman Sheikh Anaya on Mahtab Hussain and Muslim life in the United States
Curriculum
Awol Erizku on Nas, Malcolm X, and a David Hammons performance in Senegal
Words
The Force of Life
Juergen Teller on decades at the center of fashion
A Conversation with Alistair O’Neill
She’s Got the Look
A generation of women reconsiders the dynamics of being seen
Amanda Maddox
More Real Than a Memory
Melissa Shook’s rigorous and sensual self-portraits
Lucy McKeon
Everything Shines
How has the relationship between art and advertising evolved?
Brian Dillon
The Spark
How Jonathas de Andrade channels the thrill of intimacy
Silas Martí
The Afterlives of Objects
Ishiuchi Miyako reveals histories in the everyday
Andrew Maerkle
Pictures
Daydreams
Hisae Imai’s surreal life as a photographer
Moeko Fujii
Black Beauty Still Lifes
Nakeya Brown stages a story about femininity
Lovia Gyarkye
This Odor
Oto Gillen’s uncanny New York flowers
Evan Moffitt
Kosen Ohtsubo’s Flower Planet
The ikebana artist’s playful constructions mix performance and photography
Daniel Abbe
Polk County
Nabil Harb portrays community and landscape in central Florida
Michael Adno
Things, Moments, Multitudes
For Marcelo Gomes, beauty is in the pulse point
Jesse Dorris
Back
The PhotoBook Review
Features a look inside the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s research library, a review of CCA’s recently opened exhibition The Lives of Documents—Photography as Project, and reviews of photobooks by Oliver Frank Chanarin, Lynne Cohen, Marina Gadonneix, Sofia Coppola, and Corita Kent, plus The Art Institute of Chicago Field Guide to Photography and Media.
Endnote
Ten questions for Heji Shin